How to check valve gap clearance
Disclaimer: I try to tell you the best I know, but I can't give you any warranty ...
- Tx30 and Tx25 Torx wrench
- 8 mm Allan head wrench
- Philips screwdriver
- 10 mm socket wrench
- 10 mm wrench
- Put your bike on the centerstand, or if you're lacking one (oh, you have a Dakar!?),
on a shopstand.
- Remove the seat.
- Remove the left, the right and the middle tank "fake" cover.
- Remove the battery.
|Remove air intake muffler|
- Remove intake muffler mounting bolt on the oiltank.
- Remove intake muffler mounting screws on bracket.
- Pull starter relais off the holding device
- Remove electronic box cover
- Remove battery tray
- Remove airing hose from intake muffler
- Push the oiltank slightly to the left, and carefully
pull the intake muffler off the intake tube
- Cover the intake tube
At this stage, it should look like this.
BTW, the black/red wire, leading down from
battery plus connector, the black wire leading down from oiltank, and the gray
wire on the left are not standard. You most probably won't see them, as well as the
blackbox in the lower left corner (this is the CLS200µ
- Remove the coolant expansion tank from the radiator, and fix
it to the handle bar, with a cable tie f.e. Keep an eye on the coolant
level. It always must be below the tank cover.
- Remove the MoDiTeC plug from the holding device on top of the fan housing
- Remove the fan plug
- Remove the fan (clips on top and on bottom of fan housing)
Cover the radiator with a piece of cardboard. This will save
the radiator as well as your skin ;-)
This is the sight you will have now.
- Unplug ignition coil (2)
- Remove spark plug connector
- Remove ignition coil (1) from cylinder head cover
- Take off throttle cable (arrow)
- Remove the washer and the throttle cable (6)
- Hook off the cover from the frame (right and left) and remove it (4)
- Remove the airing hose (7)
- Remove the spark plug
- Remove 8 bolts
holding the cylinder head cover. Keep in mind the position of the special ignition
coil mounting bolts (red circles).
Looks like this now ...
|Finally - checking the gap clearance|
The obligatory pics:
- Remove the middle screw on the right engine housing (generator housing)
- With an 8mm Allan head wrench crank the engine clockwise to top dead point. Unfortunately,
there doesn't seem to be a top dead point mark. At least, I didn't see one. So I put a
plastic rod into the spark plug hole, and so I could see when the piston was in top dead.
- With the gauge check the gap clearance. If you can't check it, the piston most probably
is in the wrong top dead. Crank the engine by another 360° and try again.
- Correct gap clearance is:
|Inlet:||0.10 - 0.15 mm|
|Exhaust:||0.25 - 0.30 mm|
- If the gap clearance is within this in any way, leave it. Checking it, is one thing.
Adjusting it, is quite another cup of tea. I've been lucky enough not having to do this.
Thus, adjusting valve gap clearance will come later ... ;-)
|Putting all together again|
Put things together in reverse order, pay your special attention to the following:
- Remove the gasket from the cylinder head cover and clean it. Also clean the groove
and the surface of cylinder head.
- On the intake neck, there are 3 bumps. You have to push
the air duct over all three of them. The first is easy, the second too, but to go over the third
requires some amount of power. Some vaseline will help to manage.
- Intake manifold must rest in a hole near the headlamp
- Check coolant liquid level, and fill up, if necessary.
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